Early on in the natural hair movement, coconut oil was deemed a miracle oil. A favorite in DIY recipes many companies began adding them to shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. After years in the spotlight, a few years ago, coconut oil began to tumble from grace. Some started to notice allergies, others realized it felt amazing in the beginning but the benefits decreased over time.
My postpartum hair looked limp, weak, dull and had a difficult time retaining moisture. Many of the products I used contained coconut oil, but it had been many years since I had actually used raw coconut oil on my hair. I was considering using coconut oil as a treatment for my hair. That’s when I discovered it was no longer a shining star in the natural hair community
Coconut Oil is bad for hair because it can build up making it difficult to effectively moisturize your hair. Coconut oil can also be bad for hair because in colder climates it is solid at room temperature, leaving hair feeling stiff or a with a white cast. Keep reading to learn how I use coconut oil in my hair routine.
Stylists & Influencers Speak Out: A Timeline
2014: Oils repel Moisture and Suffocate Hair
Apparently, at some point in 2014, the popular hairstylist and founder of the curly hair brand OUIDAD said oils don’t seal in moisture. I can’t find the actual Ouidad article or video that sparked this conversation, but this article on BGLH goes into more details. This was the first mention I could find of a stylist taking a firm stance against coconut oil.
2016 Naptural85 Stopped Using Coconut Oil
In 2016 a popular natural hair influencer naptural85 noticed that her hair started behaving poorly. Coconut was a favorite of hers, but she stripped it from her routine and started to see an improvement in her hair.
2017 Ditch the Coconut Oil (and SHEA Butter AND JBCO)
Two stylists really began to make ripples when they said to stop using Coconut Oil, Shea Butter, and Jamaican Black Castor Oil. The founders of “I am Black Curls” want those with highly textured hair to see their curls without being covered in heavy oils and heavy butters. Like many naturals, I was confused because if you don’t use oils or butters, what in the world are you supposed to use to style your hair?
Twist Outs Fail because of Coconut Oil
Some have tried to use Coconut Oil as part of the L.O.C. method, but it is not very effective. The problem here is that coconut oil can interfere with the styling cream, mousses, and gels. Many styling creams for natural hair are already formulated with oils. Adding coconut oil to your hair in addition to the styler can leave hair weighed down and feeling greasy.
Coconut Oil Does Not Moisturize Hair
Moisture = water. Coconut is an oil, and oils and water don’t mix. If you thirsty drink water, if your hair is dry it needs water. If water does not seem to be working, your hair may need to be clarified. This is the message that I have been hearing from the movement of folks who have stopped using oils and butters in their regular routine.
Coconut Oil in My Natural Hair Routine
My postpartum hair looked limp, weak, dull and had a difficult time retaining moisture. Many of the products I used contained coconut oil, but it had been many years since I had actually used raw coconut oil on my hair. I was considering using coconut oil as a treatment for my hair.
I started contemplating using coconut oil, and that is when I discovered that coconut oil had become so controversial. Initially, I decided not to use raw coconut oil on my hair. Instead, I tried treatments like Olaplex and started using strengthening conditioners.
One day I noticed that a product I used was crystal clear and completely liquid, but also contained coconut oil. HOW WAS THIS POSSIBLE? All Coconut Oil I had ever used was solid a room temperature. How could a product be so clear and also contain coconut oil. That is how I discovered fractionated Coconut Oil.
Fractionated Coconut Oil, has larger fats, the types that make it solid removed. I was able to find it in a pump bottle on amazon. I started using it as a pre-shampoo treatment. The day before wash day, I would use it to help detangle my hair. It aided in detangling and made my wimpy strands feel a little plumper. As I mentioned earlier coconut oil doesn’t make a great styler, but as a pre-poo detangler I love it.
Fractionated Coconut Oil is a crystal clear liquid, so it does not get solid at room temperatures like virgin coconut oil. It melts into my hair without leaving it feeling greasy. I have been using it routinely for a few months now. But….I REALLY want to do the 30 day hair detox by I am black girl curls.
I joined their membership “See Some Curls” for 30 days. I like the information in there. Started implementing some of the techniques on my boys and their hair is in great shape. I am ready to dive in and give this detox a try for myself…but it is a huge paradigm shift.
The 30 day hair detox means no coconut oil, no shea butter, not Jamaican black Castor Oil or ecostyler for 30 days. It also means no products with these in the top 5 ingredients. Almost every single product I currently own has one of these in the top 5 ingredients. My shampoo and conditioner are probably the only ones that are “OK” for the 30 day hair Detox.
Bottom Line about Coconut Oil
Virgin Coconut Oil can build up on your hair leaving it hard, stiff, reducing the longevity of hairstyles. Coconut Oil can be found in many products, but it is different than what you would by at he grocery store. Avoid raw coconut oil and if you are a huge fan, it is probably best in products formulated by a chemist.
Do you use coconut oil? Do you follow I am Black Girl Curls? Have you tried the 30 day hair detox?