I was intrigued by the no butters no oils/30 day hair detox challenge because I rarely saw my texture or length of hair represented in wash and gos. During the 2020/2021 shutdowns I stumbled on Black Girl Curls Instagram page full of them and I have been intrigued ever since then. Here is an example of what I am talking about courtesy of black girl curls IG page.
When I first heard the “no oils no butters” method. I quickly scrolled by because in my head that meant no products. Fortunately I continued to learn more and the “no butters no oils” challenge made me enjoy my natural hair so much more.
In 2023 there was so much drama and lots of misinformation regarding the 30 day hair detox. I wanted to clear the air so you don’t make some of these mistakes if you are thinking about trying the no butters no oils approach to hair care.
MYTH: You can’t use leave in Conditioners when following the No Butters No Oils Method
If you like your leave in, keep the leave in. A lot of people, my self included, ditch the leave in for a humectant gel, when wearing wash and gos. Gels provide hold by creating a cast. If the leave in is too rich and creamy it will interfere with the gel cast, so your wash and go may not last as long. Sometimes when gels are mixed with leave ins they can make white flakes. That’s it and that’s all. In my experience those are the worse case scenarios for adding a leave in conditioner to wash and go to a wash and go.
I personally use leave ins for other styles like twist outs, flat twists or rod sets. If I really want to wear my hair in a wash and go with a leave in my two go to combos are:
However, I’ve tried my favorite wash and go combo with a leave in. Uncle Funky Daughter Curly Magic and Trepadora Bamboo Ginseng Glaze and it simply doesn’t last the 3-5 days I normally get from using this combo.
Black Girl Curls has a curated list of products that includes leave ins. So absolutely nothing bad will happen if you decide to use them.
The No Butters No Oils police are not going to show up in your bathroom if you decide to slip a leave in under your wash and go. If you feel your hair benefits from a leave in, use a leave in and enjoy.
Myth: No Deep Conditioners when following the No Butter No Oils Method
Similar to leave ins, if you like the Deep Conditioner keep the deep conditioner. A lot of naturals, myself included thought that things like pre pooing, deep conditioning, and liquid oil cream (l.o,c) were MANDATORY as someone with natural hair. Because the standard natural hair wash day routine was long and required most of the day, I would only wash my hair once or twice a month.
Stripping out the extra steps of pre-pooing and deep conditioning made my wash day much shorter. I now wash my hair every 3-5 days or about twice a week. My hair is seeing conditioner 6-8 times a month as opposed to the 1 or 2 times a month that I was Deep Conditioning. I would say most wash days I skip the Deep Conditioner, but out of 6-8 wash days, I do Deep Condition once or twice per month.
When I do use deep conditioners,I use them similar to rinse outs. I actually mix my deep conditioner with my rinse out conditioner, detangle my hair then rinse it out.
Part of the No oils No Butter Methods was created for weekly wash days and wash and go styling. If you go too far outside of that box. If you wear protective styles, use box dye or any color treatments, heat style your hair on the regular. Than you may need to routinely deep condition your hair.
These are some of my favorite conditioners and deep conditioners:
Oyin Hemp Rinse Out conditioner
Mielle Babassu Mint Deep Conditioner
Over Cleansing your hair while following the No Butters No Oils Method.
Over cleansing is definitely a thing. A thing that can leave your hair a tangly mess. The No Butter No oils method teaches the shampoo spectrum. The three main types of shampoo are moisturizing, all purpose, and clarifying. To be honest the shampoo spectrum is a little over my head. To keep it simple, I stick to the moisturizing shampoo for most wash days. If I feel my hair is a little buildup-y I will use my all purpose shampoo. I use my clarifying shampoo about once every 6 weeks.
My Moisturizing Shampoo is Oyin Honey Wash
My “All Purpose” or stronger cleanser is Goji Berry Mint Shampoo by Trepadora.
My Clarifying Shampoo is Malibu Undoo Goo
Picking the right shampoo for the job takes a little practice and getting to know your hair. When my styling products don’t work like I am used to them working, I know build up is at play. So I go in with a stronger shampoo. I know alot of the no butters no oils girlies follow up the all purpose or clarifying shampoo with a moisture poo. I don’t think Oyin Honey wash was on Black Girl Curls list, and I know the moisturizing shampoos that they recommend are creamier. So I personally don’t always follow my clarifying shampoo or all purpose shampoo with a moisture shampoo.
Myth: One Product Wash and Gos while following the No Butters No Oils Method
So the No Butters No Oils method recommends a humectant gel as a base. The problem is humectant gels take FOREVER to dry. This is great for keeping the hair moisturized throughout the week, however sitting under the dryer or diffusing can be more time consuming.
Many brands have designed one product wash and go products everything from gels to styling foams. These are great when you are in a pinch, or are someone who restyles you hair every one or two days. Some of these products have great hold and can get you a 7 day wash and go, but just because you can doesn’t mean you should.
A lot of Wash and Go girlies like to experiment with one and done stylers.
Routinely using these products moves away from the foundation of having a humectant base to keep your hair moisturized throughout the week. My personal stylist said for me and my hair she doesn’t recommend using these type of stylers routinely.
Have fun, with the one product stylers. Just remember without a humectant gel underneath or a leave-in they can be drying over time. Also remember the one and done styling solution is marketing by brands who make these product, it is not the foundation of the “no butters no oils” routine as presented by Black Girl Curls.
MYTH: You must get a Curly Cut if you follow the No Butters No Oils Method
Curly Cuts were designed with people who wear their curls 80% of the time or more. That does not mean that because you wear your hair curly more than 80% of the time you MUST get a curly cut. I like them because I have multiple different curl patterns and Curly Cuts do a great job of accounting for them while shaping my hair.
There is no requirement to get a curly cut to wear a wash and go or follow the no butters no oils method. If your prefer more traditional techniques like blown out cuts, or cuts or silked press hair, please go for it.
Curly Cut artist go through great lengths to make sure their clients understand that their haircut may not be even when straightened. If you just want a salon wash and go without the curly cut, speak to the stylist in advance of the appointment and make sure they are ok with that.
I did the 30 day hair detox back in 2021 and wrote what the experience was like for me hair :30 Day Hair Detox Regrets & Hard Lessons. Learn more about Black Girl Curls approach to hair care from their visual library: See Some Curls here
